Ms. Pootie Pootwell: Mukawir and the Church of St. Lot and Procopius

20 July 2013

Mukawir and the Church of St. Lot and Procopius

We planned to take a quick trip to Mukawir and then head to the Dead Sea for the day and treat ourselves like Royals (sorry - just loving that song right now).

Just as we were on our way out the door, some friends called - they were on their way to the hospital to have a baby! And wondered if we could pick up their non-human baby! Naturally, we were thrilled. After a stop to get Dewey, a stop to drop off some essential labor and deliver tools (M&M's and Hershey's Kisses), and a last stop to drop of Dewey for a day of fierce battle with Willy, we were on our way.

Mukawir or Machaerus was an ordinary fortress until Herod the Great rebuilt it to be his (impregnable) summer palace. It was later bequeathed to Herod's son, Herod Antipas who, after hearing that John the Baptist was trash-talking him for marrying his brother's widow, had JtB arrested and brought to Machaerus. After a little dancing, Salome convinced her stepfather to have John beheaded. Salome then presented the head to her mother, as consolation for the nasty gossip JtB had been spreading.

Unfortunately, Herod built on the top of a giant hill and it was a very long and hot climb up. At one point, on our second or third "admire the view" stop aka pause long enough to stop the desperate gasping for air, Susan asked why anyone would want to built on such a high hill. I reminded her of the concept of litters and slavery and not having to do any of your own work. We finally got to the top and "admired the view" for another few minutes on a conveniently placed column. And then waited until the tour group of old men and ladies left. And then got our dance on, a la Salome.

remains of Herod's Summer Palace

his view

Salome

Salome, part 2

the hill the Palace was on was riddled with caves

By the time we finished, it was already 2 p.m. So, we decided to save the Dead Sea for another day, when we could spend all day luxuriating and fully amortize the experience. Instead, we stopped on our way back into town at the Church of St. Lot and Procopius. The church has a beautiful and intricate in situ mosaic depicting scenes from everyday life (sailing, hunting, fishing, wine-making, and some random hippocampi).

The guy hanging out at the site to show people around explained that his family used to live on the site until some Italian monks came and offered to buy it from them. He showed us where his mother built her fires, to heat her tea and cook dinner. Alas the fire pit was right on top of a bear-hunting scene. He did apologize though, so I guess...?